The Legacy of Things II: Who are we? Who are they?

I recently carried out a little experiment on Facebook. I put up a poll on The Salott (RUBS) and asked people who they thought was the greatest cultural influence on Maltese culture. The top three spots went to the British, the Arabs, and the Knights. What was even more interesting were the comments that accompanied the poll. The British influence rested mostly on collective memory (they were the most recent coloniser), and language. Similarly, Arabic influence boiled down mostly to language, whereas with the Knights it rested mostly on architecture. How accurate is this?

First and foremost it must be made clear that this was simply a Facebook poll, and that it was more an exercise in public perception than a gathering of empirical data. Factual accuracy is never a reliable measure of public perception. There were plenty of comments wherein the author veered off topic, contradicted themselves, changed point of view, or made unsupported sweeping statements.  But the purpose of this little experiment was precisely that: observing online interactions as people grappled with the question: who are we?

Having actually lived in the United Kingdom, and having worked and having friendships with British people from various parts of the UK, I can assure you that they would find our concept of ‘Britishness’ alien if not downright risible. Since most who commented focused on language, it is only appropriate to look at language as a starting point.

English is the second official language of Malta, and is constantly present in our daily lives, from advertising, to signage, to everyday conversation. Indeed we have assimilated a lot English words into the Maltese language, often either respelling them (e.g. television become televixin) or even morphing them into new words (e.g. fajjar comes from the verb ‘to fire’). But I would not call our ‘spoken’ English ‘British’. On the contrary, it owes more to American English, brought to us through American pop culture. Oddly enough, no-one considered American pop culture an important influence.

Kaxxa tal-Ittri fil-Belt

But the British have left us much more than just language – things that we take for granted. We drive on the left like the UK, we use 3-pin electrical fittings, we still use red letter boxes, and our education system is modelled on the British one. And that is only to name a few. Added to that we have a lot of British era architecture that is still very much in use, particularly school buildings and hospital buildings. 

And yet there is a discrepancy. The next on the poll were the Arabs, who held sway over the islands from around 870 till around 1091 when Norman influence gradually started to take over. The Arabs have left very little by way of material remains – a few coins, a few shards of pottery, and some beautifully sculpted tombstones. No buildings, no fortifications, no mosques. Nothing. 

And yet, our language is at its root a form of Arabic, embellished over the centuries with Romance and English words. In its purer form, Maltese is intelligible to most Arabic speakers. Some would also argue that they have left us our mannerisms, and a not insubstantial mark on our DNA.

There was a time in the early 20th century when historians pushed a narrative of Maltese being a derivative of ancient Phoenician – a theory which has now been refuted. The early 20th century was a time of great national fervour, and many were keen to assert a Maltese identity that was both distinct (and thus meriting self-determination) and at the same time part of a European Christian narrative. Thus the Phoenician theory cleverly bypassed the ‘Arabic’ problem and legitimised Maltese culture as a product of Classical antiquity.

At the same time, it distanced us from the then ‘coloniser-oppressor’ British who were seen as an economic and political necessity, but a cultural pariah. The educated and artistic classes still turned to Italy for inspiration, and up until the 1930s our cultural spheres of influences rested mostly around Italy.



All of that would of course change with the Second World War. Once the Italians dropped the first bomb on Malta, our cultural ties with Italy started disintegrating. Television, dependent on ‘short range’ wave transmission up until the arrival of cable television, allowed cultural continuity. Some efforts at political ties with Italy were also maintained (e.g. the military training programmes, and the Italian archaeological missions that started in the 60s). But as Italy became politically more and more unstable, and as digital TV pretty much pushed Italian mainstream TV out of the picture, so our relationship with Italy became more distant.

It has however remained present in the spheres of football and gastronomy (the latter boosted through an influx of South Italian workers in recent years). But even so, competition from other platforms has greatly decreased the Italian influence. So where does this leave us?

Allegory of the Order of St John, Mattia Preti

The watershed moment was 2004, when Malta joined the European Union. All of a sudden we were faced with a series of fundamental questions that we never had to face before, namely: Who are we? Who are they? Following decades of post-Independence rhetoric which had asserted our uniqueness, we now found ourselves questioning that identity. Throughout the seventies we had also moved away Europe with Mintoff befriending states which were not only not European, but were positively anti-Western Europe (e.g. Libya and China).

Viewed in this light, our sense of identity is surprising. Our top two spots go to Britain (which  has just voted itself out of the EU), and Arabic culture. In 2004 we all scrambled for our atlases to figure out where exactly was Slovakia, whether Slovenia was somehow related, and the precise position of the Baltic states which to our minds seemed like a poorer version of Scandinavia. 

The closest we got to acknowledging European culture as an influence was the third spot given to the Knights Hospitaller. But that was a very disappointing third place – because it rested solely on Baroque art and architecture. The contribution and perception of the Knights merits its own investigation, but what matters here is our overall perception of who has influenced us most.

It is our understanding of ourselves that needs to be the starting point for the change that we desperately need, because it is our innate inability to understand and assimilate our influences that has led us down this self-destructive path. In a desperate attempt to assert our prowess, we imitate whatever comes across our path. In the end, instead of showing resilience and talent, we end up being mere mercenaries.

When Brexit hit, we still had politicians scrambling to try and salvage our dwindling British market rather than simply moving on to new pastures, and when lockdown was lifted back in June, we still obsessively tapped into the British market despite strong medical advice that that was not a terribly good idea because the UK was still a risky destination. Our sense of ‘Britishness’ made us instinctively gravitate towards Britain at a time when everyone else was distancing themselves from a very messy country on the verge of internal collapse. At the same time, Muscat’s investment plan relied heavily on Arab money (e.g. the infamous American University of Malta project). He spent his holidays in Dubai, lauded the Dubai model, and courted Arab nationals residing in Malta – once again even when the Dubai economic model had already started its slow inevitable decline. What matters was that the economy grows at whatever the cost. 

Is this really who we are? Who we want to be?

We have defended dodgy tax haven mechanisms, citizenship schemes, transport infrastructures, etc etc simply because ‘other countries do it’. Our political discourse is still polluted with obsessively self-aggrandising rhetoric that labels us as ‘best in Europe’ or ‘best in whatever’. The result is a sweeping away of any form of identity and the formation of an amoral opportunistic one that has at the best of times made outsiders look at us with suspicion. 

We are British or Arab or European according to what suits circumstances, but we are seldom Maltese. We seldom acknowledge the whole – only the component parts depending on need. Indeed, only one or two commentators on the poll (out of a thread that had over 600 poll choices and over a 100 comments) actually dared suggest ‘all of the above’. 

And the tragic result is there for us to see. Our townscapes have been destroyed by bland (and often ugly) architecture and urban projects. Our historic centres have been sacrificed to tourism, rendering them mere amusement parks. Our buildings have been gutted and whole histories erased. Our eateries and retail outlets have lost any character and become bland exercises in corporate branding and gentrification. Our infrastructure has destroyed not only land, but also urban mobility in favour of vehicular mobility. 

In the 90s people used to refer to Buġibba as the ultimate characterless (and ugly) location in Malta. What we are doing now is simply turning the whole country into one giant Buġibba – a hell hole for cheap tourism and easy money. But soon, very soon, we will have to face ourselves in the mirror of history, and when we ask that damn question ‘Who are we?’, we will be faced with nothing. And where there is nothing left, there is no way of saying what will replace it.

The poll in question seems to have been removed or at any rate could not be retrieved by the author.

The Maltese Cross

I would like you to take a moment to look at Malta’s current coinage. On one side you have the standard European map found on all Euro coins. On the other side, three symbols of Maltese identity: a stone altar from Mnajdra prehistoric temples, the coat of arms, and (of course) the Maltese cross. These were the symbols chosen in 2006 to represent our national identity.

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When the logo for Malta’s EU Presidency next year was unveiled, many were up in arms. The inspiration was (surprise, surprise) the Maltese cross. When the Maltese Christmas crib at the Vatican was inaugurated a couple of days ago, we had the same reaction. Many took issue with the Maltese stone balcony with a Maltese cross on it and a luzzu sticking rather oddly in front of the Nativity scene.

I do not doubt for a single instant the honest spirit with which all the respective artists chose these symbols. When the Maltese cross permeates our lives right down to our coins, it is hard not to identify with that symbol. It is irrelevant that the cross itself was not only an import by the Knights Hospitaliers, but has much older non-Maltese origins. Through centuries of cultural assimilation and appropriation, the cross has become part of our narrative like it or not.

The problem lies not with that association, but with a much deeper (and more dangerous) perception of our identity. In both cases cited above, the symbols used are the same used on cheap plastic souvenirs all over the island. Go into any souvenir shop in Malta, and you will find Maltese crosses and luzzijiet galore.

Nor is this an exclusively Maltese problem. The Eiffel Tower is synonymous with Paris, sombreros have Mexican written all over them, the Coliseum is Rome personified, and the pyramids scream Egypt. These are all symbols exploited by the capitalist system where everything can be sold, even identity. Buy a mug with a Maltese cross on it and you have bought a piece of Malta.

‘A piece of Malta’ – that is a key phrase. There is no denying that these symbols represent a part of Maltese identity, but what we fail to realise is just how small that part is. How many of us have actually been on a luzzu? Or know someone who has? Or even know someone who builds luzzijiet? The answer is: not many. Our favourite sea vessels are big flashy fast and noisy, just like our cars. I do not think the pick up line ‘Wanna come for a row on my luzzu?’ will pick up any time soon.

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Ta’ Xbiex Marina with traditional Maltese vessels…

Deep down the real issue is not the logo or the crib, but an ingrained poverty of thought that permeates our society. Our education system is a fact machine, and we are not encouraged to ask questions. We can all identify the Maltese cross and the luzzu, but we are incapable of formulating that crucial question: ‘Who are we?’

What makes us Maltese? The answer to that question is a complex and open-ended one. It touches on some very uncomfortable realisations. To put it mildly, we are not all the warm smiling bon viveurs dancing to quaint peasant tunes, rowing merrily along in our luzzijiet, and living a relaxed Mediterranean life filled with wholesome food and excited chatter.

Alas, this is precisely the identity that the power-mongers want to push, because it suits the system perfectly well. It is very convenient to be distracted by a quaint luzzu when our seas are becoming increasingly polluted. It is all very well to convince us that we are a still a country wth a charming rural life, when we are in reality living on a congested and overpopulated pebble. It is highly expedient to push the simple-living Maltese myth at a time when a few fat cats are getting fatter as more and more people are pushed into a precarious lifestyle.

And what could be better than the Maltese cross, with its chivalric associations, to cover up the mercenary attitude towards our lives where we are being sold out in the name of money?

I would like you to take a moment to look at Malta’s current coinage…

Bacon, Cisk and Saint Cajetan

(Jekk trid taqra dan l-aritklu bil-Malti agħfas hawn)

There are some who insist that Maltese festas are nothing more than a thinly disguised excuse for beer and revelry – a social inconvenient we have to put up with. When you consider all the time, money, and resources that get poured into organising a festa, I hardly think such a reasoning makes sense. If one simply wants to go out and have fun, there are plenty of other options.

The manner in which one participates (or doesn’t participate) in a festa is an important indicator not only of the individual, but of the community in which one operates. If we look at the argument from a different angle, we can say that the festa throws a powerful lens on the community organising it. The festa is the identity card of the people organising it.

Let us take a few simple examples. One only has to compare the festas in Ħaż-Żebbuġ, Imqabba, and Qrendi, where the fireworks culture dominates the festa ritual, with a festa like Saint Cajetan in Ħamrun where it is the traditional band march (accompanied by rivers of beer) which characterise the proceedings. Or even feasts laden with history like Saint Dominic and Saint Paul in Valletta, with the much younger feasts held in Fgura or  the parish of the Immaculate Conception in Ħamrun. Each feast has its own unique identity.

Please bear with me…at this point I would like to throw in a few bits of bacon.

On the 29th of July it was reported in the local media that someone put in pieces of bacon inside copies of the Qu’ran in Malta’s Mater Dei hospital, in retaliation for the murder of Fr Jacques Hamel in France. For those who maybe do not fully understand the insult, bacon is a proscribed food in Islamic culture. This was a piece of cultural terrorism.

Back in January a group of Maltese ‘patriots’ had also distributed pork sandwiches in Msida as a protest against a group of Muslims who had used the Msida waterfront to pray. It seems the Maltese believe that the bacon is mightier than the sword.

Here we need a pint of Cisk.

Cisk – that quintessentially Maltese beer. All those Maltese who have lived abroad know full well that feeling of going out for a drink and dying (literally) for a pint of Cisk. Couldn’t you get another beer? Yes, but it’s just not the same – it’s not Cisk. It’s like Italians insist that Kinnie (another great Maltese invention) and Chinotto are the same thing…you’d want to re-introduce the Inquisition simply to denounce them for heresy.

I’ve singled out Cisk for two reasons. Firstly, like all forms of alcohol, it’s a forbidden beverage in Islam. Moreover, it’s a drink that is synonymous with Maltese festas. Personally speaking, brought up with Saint Cajetan in Ħamrun, I know full well the sacredness of Cisk. (Note: All those who order Heineken at the festa, I hope you notice the barman’s look of total disdain because 1.) he has to dig it out beneath the mountains of Cisk and 2.) you remind him of the hassle to order it because Farsons (Cisk brewers) does not import Heineken and those green glass bottles are damn heavy.

So what does Cisk have to do with bacon?

Cisk, like the prohibition of bacon in Islam, is a cultural indicator. The right to have an ice cold Cisk in the middle of the morning band march on the day of the festa, is as sacred as the right not to eat bacon.

I have no doubt that whoever put those bacon rashers inside the Qu’ran felt like an absolute hero; a defender of the nation showing off the supremacy of Maltese culture with his ‘noble’ gesture.

Frankly, I would rather defend my Maltese identity by having a pint of Cisk with friends during the morning band march. And if any Muslim, or anyone really, happens to be nearby and wants to join in the fun and have even a bottle of water…they are more than welcome.

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Note: I would like to apologise for the blatant free advertising for Cisk, but it is one of those products which have now achieved a cultural significance well beyond business, like we tend to refer to Hoover (vacuum cleaner), Kenwood (food processor), and Biro (pen). Long live Cisk! Long live Malta!