Discover Malta 2020

And as 2019 draws to a close I would like to share with you twelve discoveries that I urge you to check out in 2020. (Ok some of them are not recent discoveries at all, but which I’ve revisited and re-appreciated this year). I have suggested one every month, but feel free to enjoy them whenever you want and as many times you want! And hope you make more discoveries along the way!

I also urge you, wherever possible, to walk or cycle or at least use shared/public transport. You will be helping the environment, benefitting your own health, as well as enjoying life more!

January: Palazzo Falson – Mdina

Mdina is a popular walking spot with tourists and locals. The former usually visit the main sites, and the latter mostly to savour the celebrated cakes at Fontanella. But Mdina has much more to offer – a lot of which is unfortunately still inaccessible to the public.

Luckily for us, Palazzo Falson is not one of those things. This house museum is a life-size cabinet of curiosities, with collections to pique everyone’s interests. There are collections of porcelain, glass, fine art, arms, rugs, and much more. There is also a dream library that I could spend hours in. You can find out more about the museum here.

Oh and the staff have a knack for making you feel at home – a welcome feel in the cold days of January!

February: Wignacourt Museum – Rabat

February can be even colder and wetter than January, so what better way to spend the day than by enjoying another gem of a museum? The Wignacourt Museum is located next to the better known St Paul’s Grotto. The area was just outside the Roman city of Melite in an area that was mostly a necropolis (see November below). Besides an impressive art collection the museum boasts its own Roman catacombs and World War II shelters. The collection is larger than you might expect, and it is worth dedicating at least two hours to enjoy it properly. You can find out more info here.

March: Church of the Annunciation Ħal Millieri l/o Żurrieq

Life in pre-modern Malta was mostly centred around Mdina, the Castello in Gozo, and the castrum maris in Birgu (aka Fort St Angelo). The rest of the inhabitants lived in small hamlets built around a cluster of churches. By the 17th century most hamlets had either become villages or else disappeared completely. Ħal Millieri is one such hamlet. Originally it boasted four churches, of which only two survive – the church of St John the Evangelist, and that of the Annunciation.

The latter is one of those unjustly neglected monuments that deserves far greater attention. The tiny church is enclosed in a small walled garden and also has the ruins of another church adjacent to it – that of the Visitation. But it is the interior which gives it its claim to fame. The walls are decorated with a series of very rare late Medieval frescoes showing various saints. It is the only complete example of late Medieval fresco cycle extant in Malta. 

You can read more here. The church is only open on the first Sunday of every month from 09:00 till noon.

April: Heart of Gozo | Il-Ħaġar – Rabat, Gozo

This is what every parish / village museum should be. It houses a collection of mostly sacred art and objects attached to the Basilica of St George in Gozo. It is just the right size and expertly presented. What’s more it is a beautiful combination of community pride and academic research. The objects displayed are presented as both heritage objects as well as living history. The museum also embraces contemporary art and culture with regular contemporary exhibits and a wide range of events. You can find more information by clicking here.

Church of St Mary (Tal-Ħlas) l/o Ħal Qormi

May: Church of St Mary – Tal-Ħlas – l/o Ħal Qormi

Tal-Ħlas in Maltese means ‘of childbirth’ as well as ‘payment’ or in this case ‘ransom from slavery’. Both etymologies reflect past realities when childbirth was often fatal and slavery was a very distinct possibility. The present church is mostly a late 17th century remodelling, and the pilgrim loggias at the front offer repose to body and soul. You can read more (in Maltese) here.

Nowadays the church still attracts many devotees with a little festa organised in August, usually the first Sunday after the 15th of August. There is also a mass held every third Sunday of the month were newborns can be presented and blessed. 

June: Prehistoric Temple Complex – Ħal Tarxien

The Ħal Tarxien complex is not as famous as the scenic Ħaġar Qim / Mnajdra temples, or the awe-inspiring Ġgantija Temples in Gozo, or even its more famous underground neighbour the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum (see July below). And yet it has a special kind of feeling – almost domestic in its intimacy. The site has also been fantastically restored and revamped recently – so it’s a joy to visit. You can find out more info here.

A little extra treat: Adjoining the temples is the Ħal Tarxien cemetery complete with the Modernist church of All Souls. It is a fine example of Modernist architecture, and one of the first such churches in Malta. If the cemetery is open – worth a peek! This site is managed by Heritage Malta.

July: The Hypogeum Complex – Paola

Need a break for the summer’s heat? Well, this is one of those must-see places in the world. I have been three times already, and will definitely visit again. This underground burial complex dates back to about 4000 B.C. Everything about this space is magical – it is one of those few special sacred spaces in the world. And consider that it was all dug out by hand!

You can find more information here – you need to book your tickets well in advance, and I have to be honest, tickets are not exactly ‘cheap’ but worth every cent. This site is managed by Heritage Malta.

Church of St Mary Ħax-Xluq l/o Is-Siġġiewi

August: The Medieval Church of St Mary – Ħax-Xluq

Tucked away in a country lane between the villages of Siġġiewi and Qrendi is the charming late medieval church of Ħax-Xluq, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. The church (and the surrounding hamlet) offer a rare glimpse of pre-modern Malta. The chapel is very well maintained and also boasts an exquisite positivo organ.

It seems that there is no regular Mass in this rural church so it’s very difficult to find this open. However, the titular feast is celebrated every August on the first Sunday after the 15th, where you will get to see not only the church but also a charming little festa with street food and band! There is some detailed info (in Maltese) here.

Note: Since this church seems to be open only in August for the festa I have listed it under August. 

September: Church of Our Lady of Divine Providence – Is-Siġġiewi

This church is reasonably well known, although mostly opened for special occasions and weddings. The building itself is a fine example of Maltese Baroque architecture, with an elegant portico reminding us that this was once an important pilgrimage church. You can read more info (in Maltese) here.

A little feast is also celebrated here on the first Sunday of September. It is one of those perfect little celebrations, with just the right amount of street decoration and the right amount of fireworks, and the right amount of people! 

October: Church of St Mary (aka tas-Samra) – Ħamrun

I am not including this out of patriotism…this is a true hidden gem. The church has a very interesting history which you can read here (sorry it’s in Maltese!). It is a beautiful little church and contains some beautiful works of art including a very fine Baroque altarpiece of Saint Charles Borromeo. The area also has important historical connections, with the hill being used as a gun battery during the blockade of the French garrison between 1798-1800.

The church is a pretty active one with regular masses being held, as well as a little festa of its own on the 15th of August complete with processional statue and some very dubious street decorations. However, I am listing it as an October activity because that’s when Ħamrun hosts the Chocolate Festival, and well, going up the hill to visit the church might just be the perfect excuse for that extra chocolate truffle…;)

November: St Paul’s Catacombs – Rabat

It is actually incorrect to refer to this site as ‘catacombs’ – only a part of the complex merits that title. The rest is made up of a collection of hypogea scattered around the area. That does not detract in any way from the importance and beauty of the site. The recent renovations have not only made the site easier to read, but also opened up new areas to the public. The site includes Roman, Christian, and Jewish burials. The wonderful thing about the site is that it now feels like a small archaeological park with a few benches and tables above ground level so you can enjoy the site as well as some winter sun. 

November is a month of remembrance, and this is an ideal way to reflect on death and burial rituals. There are some accessibility issues with the site owing to the very nature of the space, and it is not recommended to those suffering from claustrophobia. This site is managed by Heritage Malta and you can read more here.

The Roman Apiary at Xemxija

December: Xemija Heritage Trail – St Paul’s Bay

Winter in Malta does not really start until Christmas, making countryside walks ideal in the late Autumn sun. I have to admit I have an aversion to the St Paul’s Bay area, mostly because of the way it has been mutilated and destroyed by ugly architecture. But the Xemxija Heritage Trail was one of my discoveries of 2019. 

This trail contains everything – Cart ruts, Neolithic dwellings, Punic tombs, Roman apiaries and baths…you name it! There isn’t a lot of reliable info online but this blog entry is helpful. My only regret is that I went there with a large group and did not have time to explore everything properly. Definitely worth another visit! You are also faced with the ugliness of modern apartment blocks and the encroaching ‘development’ that constantly threatens our shared heritage. 

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Education can take many forms – discover your past so that our future may be brighter!

Communities and the Third Party

In case you haven’t figured it out, this is how the system works in Malta.

1. Identify a get rich quick scheme.
2. Pander to the political party in power promising undying loyalty and votes.
3. That political party will then refuse you or be sceptical about it
4. Go to the OTHER party as a disgruntled constituent and get a better deal
5. Return to the original party stating the counter-offer
6. Get a deal.
7. Come election time, go to the second party all contrite promising undying loyalty (and votes).
8. Repeat.

Sounds improbable? Well that is precisely the kind of system that leads us into ridiculous situations where a public official involved in the construction industry gets asked to be a candidate for both main parties. Whichever party loses, it’s the opportunists who win in the end.

We often lament the fact that Malta’s bi-party system is the root cause of all our problems, but in reality there’s a much more powerful (and much smaller) third party – that of unscrupulous opportunism.

It would be very wrong to point the finger directly at the construction lobby, although it is arguably one of the more powerful lobbies within this third party. There is also a long list of dubious industries that thrive on exploitation (strip-clubs and massage parlours, anyone?) and speculation (i.e. the property market). Together they all form the Third Party, and they run the show. Of course this does not exonerate the other two parties from complicity, but it only serves to expose just how ineffective and irrelevant they are.

The problem, as always, is coming up with an alternative. As laudable as the efforts to set up rival parties might be, they still pose the same problem. No matter how much support any party can get, they will still be part of the same system of patronage. Even if they refuse to be part of that system, the mechanisms of that very system will always keep them from expanding enough to be able to change that system.

The problem lies also within our attitudes. We might be against over-development, or human exploitation, and yet when push comes to shove we all willingly pander to the system. We still have the mentality that to achieve anything we need to go through our local MP. It is an attitude that plagues our country in every sphere of life, from public healthcare to job seeking, and it is a system that candidates exploit wonderfully.

With an election at our doorstep you might have noticed the increased presence of your local candidates at your local festa or football club celebration. You might have even gotten a call asking you ‘Trid xi ħaġa?’ (Do you need anything?) from some Ministry or other. And that makes you feel important, even something of a chosen one. Except of course any small favour you might receive is really pittance compared to the deals entered into with the Third Party. You might have gotten your son a job within a Ministry, or a coveted reserved parking, but in reality you are only selling your vote and your silence and your integrity.

But there is a way out.

The answer to all this might lie in our communities. If we are to save our country (and arguably the world) before it is too late we need to think as a community with shared interests, not as a series of self-serving individuals. The key is doing things, no matter how small, together, without asking for any favours.

Can it happen? Well, a few weeks ago there was (yet another) multi-storey project proposed for Ħal Tarxien. The response was that the villagers got together and started a petition; not just an online petition, but physically going door to door and gathering signatures. It might sound silly, but the fact that people actually got out of their house in an effort to protest is already something new to the environmental lobby. The residents of Ħal Tarxien managed in a few weeks what the residents of Sliema never could in years – they presented a unified front in an effort to preserve their village.

There is also a very good reason why one was possible in one place and not in the other. There is a sense of community in Ħal Tarxien that is almost non-existent in Sliema. In Tarxien there is not only a strong festa tradition, but also several local voluntary groups and youth centres that regularly carry out ambitious projects in the village. Of course many will be quick to dismiss these as amateur productions, or religious follies, but the truth of the matter is that these have preserved a sense of community and it was thus far easier for them to mobilise the village to get signatures.

There is also another surprising element in all this. The residents of Ħal Tarxien have proved far more open to outsiders than Sliema’s supposedly multi-cultural community. Although the Tarxien residents have not turned the petition into a nationwide effort, they did not block anyone with a genuine interest from signing the petition. On the other hand, when there was a petition against high-rise doing the rounds and I tried to join the Sliema Residents Association Group on Facebook I simply got a refusal and a curt message that ‘the group is open only to Sliema residents’.

Participation or petitions on their own will not change the system, but it is communities which hold the key to the future. We have as yet to unlock the full potential of a group of people working together for a common aim outwit of the political party system.  What we need therefore is to strengthen our communities, and here are a few simple measures that we can take in order to achieve that:

1. Get involved in the operations of local community organisations
2. Participate in local community events
3. Support other communities in matters of common national interest
4. Remove partisan politics from Local Councils by pushing Independent Candidates
5. Support petitions and campaigns that preserve and safeguard communities
6. Become a community ambassador by getting others involved

 

You can still sign the petition to save Ħal Tarxien from over development by clicking here

 

It’s not just about -INSERT LOCATION- anymore

I have just signed (and shared) yet another petition. This time to try and stop an 11-storey building in Ħal Tarxien. But this time petitions just won’t cut it, because there is a much deeper problem running through our daily lives, and that is a feudal subservience to an unscrupulous political class. If we want to stop this greed, it will take more than a petition.

The first massive hurdle we need to overcome is our parochial indifference. I genuinely wonder how many of those Tarxiniżi who signed the petition actually signed any of the petitions doing the rounds objecting to high-rise projects in Sliema, St Julians and Mrieħel. I suspect not many. But now that the monster is at their gates, many will be roused from their sleep. You could argue that it is better late than never, but you shouldn’t be petitioning just to stop developments in your village, but you should object to every such development happening anywhere.

The next hurdle will be our selfish individualism, a trait that has been quietly instilled in our society over the past fifty or so years. It is the belief that the personal needs of the individual outweigh the needs of the community s/he operates in. It is the philosophy that leads to such arguments as ‘I will not protest or sign a petition…because who know what I might need in the future?’ Well, at this rate, you won’t have much of a future to look forward to.

It is the same line of thought that developers use when they claim ‘if Mr X has been given a permit to build such a development, why not me?’. The answer is simple; because the quality of life of the community should come before personal profit. Then of course the developer will cry foul, and claim that an injustice has been committed in his regard, because there are precedents.

Well, consider this scenario:

A judge rules that a man who committed a murder be fined a small sum instead of being sent to jail; a ruling that is considered too lenient by all, but never challenged and therefore allowed to happen. Now, if years later a different judge is faced with a similar crime and instead jails the accused, are we to accuse that judge of miscarriage of justice?

So if there were plenty of development permits granted that ruined our urban and natural environments, should we keep on ruining it?

So what are we to do?

I. Make your voice heard

Stand up and be counted. Signing and sharing petitions is one of them, but stand your ground in your everyday life. Do not be afraid to voice your opinion in other places, not just online.

You can sign the Tarxien petition here

You can sign a petition for sustainable development in Malta here

II. Get involved in your local community

There are plenty of voluntary organisations around, so there really is no excuse. You get to meet people, develop new skills, and you learn to work and live with others. You will meet others like you who are sick of the status quo, and who are genuinely interested in the wellbeing of their community. If you want to help a community that is being threatened, you need to become part of that community.

You can find a list of all Voluntary Organisations in Malta here

III. Stop patronising politicians and developers

Remember the party financing and conflict of interest scandal that erupted over a week ago? Well, it might have been upstaged by the collapse of the Azure Window, but the problem is still there. Do not be fooled, both parties are guilty as hell. Malta is small enough that people know pretty well who finances who.

Stop inviting these people to your community activities, do not attend their political rallies, have fewer fireworks and street decorations for your festa…STOP TAKING THEIR MONEY! You might think that the couple of hundred euros they give you is a lot of money, but when you are dealing with property we are talking hundreds of thousands, if not millions.

IV.  Stop feeling like politicians are doing you favours

Do not be blinded by that newly resurfaced road, or a better waste-collection service. That’s what we pay taxes for. Do not put your trust in someone just because he has finally got that faulty water main fixed after two months, rather put your trust in the politician who revamps the public works department to ensure that faults are repaired quicker. Do not feel any obligation for things you already pay for.

V. Be an honest citizen

Do not get involved in this feudal patronage system. Many will try and silence you by offering you bribes, and bribes come in many forms. An election is approaching and already phone calls are being made, and favours promised. Just remember that no matter how many promises politicians might actually keep, everything comes at a price.